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Tucked away in a narrow gorge, battered by wind and tide, encircled by rice paddies... Hindu temples watch over every corner of this Indonesian island. Our eight favorites.
The only Hindu-majority island inIndonesiaBali 10,000 temples. Each village has at least three temples dedicated to the gods of the mythological trinity: Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. These temples have no statues of deities, but a sacred enclosure facing Mount Agung. Progress through the temple takes place in three stages. The jabaat the entrance to the temple, is an enclosure dedicated to secular activities. The jaba tengahThe central courtyard features small, raised shelters where women make offerings. You enter the jeroan by a door that separates the world of men from that of the gods. This is where the deities descend for ceremonies, where prayers are made and offerings deposited. The architecture and layout of these temples reflect the immutable laws of the cosmos. Water and mountains play a major role. Perched on a cliff, hidden among rice paddies, overlooking the placid waters of a lake or exposed to the wrath of a volcano, here's a selection of the most beautiful Balinese temples.
SEE THE FOLDER - Indonesia: the Figaro
In Bali, there's not a tourist brochure or travel agency window that doesn't extol the natural beauty of Tanah Lot temple. The pagoda-like thatched roof emerging from a cluster of wind- and wave-whipped trees has become the island's symbol. Perched atop a rocky islet, the "land in the sea" temple attracts tourists by the hundreds as the sun sinks over the horizon. The beach is sometimes so crowded that you have to queue to get in. To enjoy the temple in peace and quiet, it's best to come early in the morning or early in the afternoon, depending on the tides, as the temple is only accessible at low tide.
The plus : On busy days, prefer the sunset from the nearby Batu Bolong temple. Same views, less crowds.
At the south-western tip of Bali, Uluwatu temple offers breathtaking sea views from its 70-metre cliff top. It is one of the island's most sacred temples. A 16th-century Shiva priest is said to have found the mokchathe liberation of the soul. A long walk starts from the temple and follows the cliff for 500 meters. You'll be accompanied by mischievous macaques, happy to steal caps and sunglasses.
The plus : the show of kecak (dance form) led by men in a trance around a fire as the sun sets.
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Many people discover this temple by chance, falling under the spell of Ubud's famous Café Lotus. The tables in this open-air café overlook two pools lined with pink lotuses, separated by a central walkway that leads up to the temple. The main door is guarded by a couple of dvarapalaThe temple is rarely open. The temple is rarely open, and its forecourt is set aside for the folklore shows organized every evening by the café. Nevertheless, it's a truly serene stopover in frenetic Ubud.
The plus : enjoy the show from the bale patokCafé Lotus's treehouse for an intimate experience.
It takes a good hour from Ubud to reach this temple, which seems to emerge from the placid waters of Lake Beratan. Lost between the peaks of dormant volcanoes, this small temple attracts many tourists, both foreign and local. Eleven thatched roofs with impeccable bangs surmount the MeruThe tower symbolizes the sacred mountain of Hindu mythology. The temple dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of water, is known throughout the country, as it appears on the 50,000 rupee banknotes.
The plus : come in the early morning when the light is still soft and the sky clear. In the afternoon, mist descends from the mountains, whitening the backdrop.
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The slopes of Mount Agung, Bali's sacred volcano, are home to a religious complex dedicated to the Hindu trilogy of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The veneration of the gods on this remarkable site long predates the arrival of Hinduism on the island. Megalithic stelae dating back 2,500 years have been found at the base of the temple of temples, Pura Penataran Besaki. This dominates 22 other temples, at an altitude of almost 1,000 metres, and is reached by an interminable staircase that marks the pilgrim's spiritual elevation.
The plus : try to come during one of the 70 festivals celebrated here every year, when thousands of pilgrims flock here in their finest finery.
A long stone path winds through rice paddies and rows of coconut palms. It leads to the Gunung Kawi temple, hidden in the folds of a valley. Dating back to the 11th century, it is one of Bali's oldest sanctuaries. In all, ten niches carved into the cliff shelter 10 candis. These altars form a mausoleum in memory of King Anak Wungsu, his wives and his descendants. In the jeroanIn the temple's most sacred courtyard, offerings and incense sticks lie at the foot of idols. You'll be amazed by the natural beauty of the place and the extreme serenity it exudes.
The plus : the play of caves and staircases at the entrance to the site, reinforcing the atmosphere of mystery that reigns here, and multiplying the points of view.
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Less than a kilometer upstream from Gunung Kawi, the Tirta Empul temple is famous for its purifying spring. The waters of the Pariksan River gush out through stone mouths that fill a vast basin. An imposing elephant statue, a symbol of good fortune, guards the entrance. Indonesians come with their families to bathe in this sacred water. Many tourists follow in their footsteps, and it's sometimes necessary to queue for a long time when a bus pours out its stream of passengers.
The plus : the magnificent exotic gardens that have surrounded the temple since its construction in 962.
The second largest temple after Besakih, Taman Ayun was originally a royal temple belonging to the Mengwi family. Its merus of the 17th century, framed by a moat, are well worth a visit. The complex, divided into three courtyards, features some fifty altars topped by pagoda thatched roofs. These are stacked in ascending order, reaching eleven storeys on the highest tower. Their perfect alignment creates a delicate, harmonious whole.
The plus : Taman Ayun is also a charming garden dotted with lotuses, magnolias, palms and soft green mosses. The name literally means "the garden in the middle of the water".
WHERE TO SLEEP
The Saren
Just a stone's throw from Tanah Lot, The Saren offers a soothing getaway for mind and body. Occupying a plot surrounded by rice paddies, the 12 villas combine raw, natural materials: smooth concrete, exotic woods, woven wicker and polished stone. The play of light and clean lines create a structured, modernist space. For architecture lovers.
The Saren184 Jl Pantai Nyanyi, Beraban, Kec. Kediri, Kabupaten Kabanan, Bali 82121 Tel: +62 831 1585 6239. Double room from €120.
Kupu Kupu Barong
Lost among the rice paddies away from the hustle and bustle of Ubud, Kupu Kupu Barong offers spectacular views of the jungle and river below. Rooms are housed in rice granaries scattered around the property. The mango-topped spa has been garnering accolades since it opened in 2005. A perfect place to recharge your batteries after exploring the temples in the center of the island.
Kupu Kupu BarongKedewatan, Ubud Gianyar, Bali 80571. Tel: +62 361 975 478. Double room from €108.
The Istana
Perched on a cliff with the blue sea as a backdrop, the Istana echoes the nearby Uluwatu temple. The luxury hotel offers a meditative journey using ancient and modern techniques. Yoga, breathing and Vipassana meditation are combined with cryotherapy, infrared saunas and hyperbaric chambers to heighten the senses. The rooms evoke an almost monastic sobriety, with the added bonus of space.
The IstanaUluwatu, Jl Pantai Suluban, Pecatu, South Kuta, Bali 80361. Tel: +62 361 769 869. From €204.
GOOD TABLES
Warung Subak Pekendungan
Bamboo pavilions hang over a pool frequented by large koi carp. Don't forget to leave your sandals at the entrance before settling down on the floor, feet dangling over the pool. The menu offers a choice of Western and local specialties.
Warung Subak Pekendungan, Tanah Lot, Jl Raya Denpasar, Beraban, Taraban, Bali 82171 Tel: +62 361 479 0888.
Café Lotus
This vast pavilion covered with a thick thatched roof is one of Ubud's must-see stops. Located along the main street, it opens onto a magnificent interior garden. The menu is very classic, and offers an introduction to a number of Indonesian specialties.
Café LotusJl Raya Ubud, Ubud, Bali. Tel: +62 361 975 660.
Locavore
You'll need to book well in advance if you hope to secure a table at this temple to gastronomic experience. As the name suggests, the products are sourced exclusively on the island, as are the crockery and furniture. The chef duo smoke, confit, ferment and reduce meats, fish, vegetables, foliage, flowers and spices for surprising combinations.
Locavore10 Jl Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali. Tel: +62 361 977 733.
Wantilan
The restaurant at Hotel Puri Candikuning lets you savor the tranquility of Lake Beratan a little longer. You can enjoy the cool climate in small pavilions set flush with the water. If the Indonesian specialities are a little lacking in frankness, the setting is well worth the detour.
Wantilan, Villa Puri Candikuning Resort, Km 52 Jl Raya Candikuning, Bedugul, Baturiti 82191. Tel: +62 368 203 3252.
anonymous
the
Bali? you should have gone there in the 1960s and 70s before mass tourism destroyed it!
ShanghaiMan
the
I love Bali and Tirta Empul is indeed a mystical temple! When I go to Bali with family and friends we go to Villa Lumia, can't wait for the next time!
ShanghaiMan
the
I love Bali and Tirta Empul is indeed a mystical temple! When I go to Bali with family and friends we go to Villa Lumia, can't wait for the next time!
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Bali: the most beautiful temples to visit
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